Born to a German agent ancestor and a French mother, Lorenz Baumer’s ambulant adolescence eventually led him to Paris, area he advised engineering. In 1989, he opened a exhibit on the Rue Royale to affectation his apparel adornment designs. Three years’ later, he absitively to focus on accomplished adornment and confused to that allegorical abode of French luxury: the Abode Vendome. In 2012, he was called an Officier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture. He and his aggregation accomplish about 250 pieces of adornment a year, both collections and custom works. In his showrooms, which are now aing to the Ritz on the Abode Vendome, there are vitrines showcasing his jewelry, a Herve Van der Straeten console, best photographs of Paris, and a baby library with books that acknowledge Baumer’s attraction with Joan Miro and the history of the gem trade. The adornment artist adds that he consistently has an all-encompassing accumulating of all-embracing whiskeys and Alain Ducasse chocolates to hand. We batten to Baumer about his aisle as an administrator and his adulation of Baroque.
How did you alpha out?
I’m an architect by training, so there weren’t any determinative years, you know? I abstruse best of what I apperceive by myself and luckily I got to assignment in some absurd workshops, with actual accomplished bodies who accomplished me a lot.
What do your engineering studies accompany to the table?
Engineering has been actual useful: it’s all about optics, attrition of material, assembly sheets… It’s allotment of my business. I’m apparently one of the [graduates] who’s fabricated the best use of that accurate knowledge.
You started off designing apparel jewelry. Why?
Those were amazing years for me: you accomplish mistakes that you can't with big-ticket jewelry! It accustomed me to appearance adornment to my mother’s accompany — a affectionate of Tupperware sale! — and see what formed and what didn't. Then, one day, one of my audience asked whether I could architecture a allotment of adored adornment about one of her diamonds. That was the alpha of my accomplished adornment business. At one point, I was accumulation apparel and accomplished jewelry, but again boring it evolved. I got a area at 4 Abode Vendome, again confused here, and boring congenital up to authoritative alone accomplished jewelry.
How important are Art Fairs to you? You were afresh at the Biennale de Paris and are now accessory PAD in London…
It’s a abundant way to accommodated audience abroad, in a altered ambience to a store. A lot of the time, bodies are abashed to go to the Abode Vendome — it’s a alarming place. So if you go to the Biennale, they can aloof pop in to see what you’ve done, again leave. It’s abundant to accept bodies apperceive what you’re about. We consistently accomplish new pieces, new collections, and extensions of absolute lines. I anticipate the bodies we’ll accommodated at PAD will be actual altered to those at the Biennale.
The Biennale was actual aboriginal in the season. And we didn't accept that abounding greenhorn visitors at the Biennale — I anticipate Londoners don’t biking so abundant to fairs in France, while the French will go to PAD in London. They’re both actual complementary: and accomplishing a fair is commutual to what we do here.
On Abode Vendome, you’re amidst by ancestry labels. How do you compete?
Well, it’s about actuality confusing — accomplishing things in a altered way. We adulation innovation! I anticipate it’s admirable to appearance we’re application 3-D press on titanium, we boom diamonds… things cipher abroad does. The 3-D titanium press is done by workshops that additionally book genitalia of French fighter planes! It’s actual agitative to use a technology to accomplish adornment that’s different.
We additionally accomplish adornment that’s meaningful. For example, we accept a baby ring: it says that your affection beats for someone. Ancestry adornment is generally aggressive by traditions and affections from 100 years ago. Plus: I’m still alive—which is not the case for best of the adjoining names about Abode Vendome! And I own my aggregation one hundred percent.
In agreement of what appeals to clients, do you apprehension generational brackets or new trends?
Yeah—I anticipate there’s a adolescent bearing now that wears adornment in a altered way and the aspirations are actual different. For example, the adolescent bearing wants to change the apple with what they buy: so we consistently highlight that we advice the kids of Sumba, Indonesia, by creating adornment that’s fabricated by them and awash for them. Adolescent barter additionally appetite to be able to abrasion adornment in a added relaxed, circadian way, alike bond and matching.
Do you accept any muses?
I did a adornment for Charlene, Princess of Monaco, in 2010. That was absolutely appropriate and absolutely inspiring: she’s addition I bethink actual fondly.
Do you accept any specific places that affect you?
I adulation to go to exhibitions. I ride my bike, I adulation the ocean. I like Biarritz for surfing. I adulation Venice — it’s actual baroque, Byzantine, opulent, with abounding colors… But afflatus mostly comes from appropriate stones. For instance, I adulation mineralogy — afresh pyrite. Nature gives us such absurd ability and it’s absorbing to see how we can transform them in adjustment to accomplish a allotment of jewelry.
How do collaborations access your creation?
I aloof advised a lipstick for Guerlain. But I’ve collaborated with abounding Houses — 20 years with Chanel Joaillerie, 10 years with Louis Vuitton… It’s absorbing to assignment with a cast and booty things to addition level, see how they accurate themselves. It’s not your own House, so you accept to get it right, and these are big corporations. My own business has been activity 30 years — but I adulation actuality an entrepreneur. I accept bottom agency but I’m my own master. There are a lot of possibilities.
This adventure appears in the October copy of BlouinShop magazine.
Founder: Louise Blouin
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